Sunday, June 13, 2010

Matte, El Mundial, and Nomqom

First thing is first. I forgot to mention matte. Matte is the drink of Argentina, but especially of Formosa. It is an herb tea drank from a wooden cup in a metallic cup holder - the latter decorated with snake skin or, more typically, with etchings of animals and/or symbols. Considering it's winter (and 15 degrees is COLD for Formosa) many people walk around with their thermos and hierba in their cup - they just keep pouring water into the cup until they've soaked up the last of the flavor from the herb (or run out of hot [70 degrees to be exact] water). But what they drink it out of is the best - it's a metallic spoon/straw that function at a spoon because, well, it's a spoon, but as a straw because it has holes in the bottom (and it obviously hollow inside). If I sound overly amazed by such small things, please, don't take it as sarcasm. It's simply that Formosa is a quaint place, with little ostentatious display of culture (FIFA being the exception, but I'll get to that). So the little things really do become memorable.

Second of all - the Mundial. The first Argentina game was yesterday at 11:00 - and here in Formosa there was no way you could have missed it. I went to a birthday party for my colleague's friend's son (and to help keep an eye on my colleague's one year old daughter), so I celebrated the Mundial with some parents and a WHOLE BUNCH of kids. EVERYONE, from preschool to pension age, was decked out in Argentina attire. Of course, as soon as Argentina scored a goal (in the first 7 minutes) we all went crazy - kazoo's screeching, white and light blue pom poms waving, and needless to say everyone chanting ARGENTINA ARGENTINA. What an atmosphere. The rest of game was just as high energy, although as it got closer to the end it was pretty clear Nigeria was done for - although the only thing that knowledge changed was it made everyone scream even louder at the projection (they set up a projector and screen so that EVERYONE could see what was happening). If this is what happened over one goal, you can only imagine what happened when the game was over and Argentina had won. We ran out into the street - waving flags and chanting ARGENTINA at passing cars and pedestrians. Horns were honking, fireworks could be heard blasting from a few streets away, and even the sun came out (it had looked like it would rain earlier that morning). FINALLY, I see what futbol really means in Latin America.

Finally, let me introduce my work. I have not mentioned it thus far because I was still adapting to it and did not want to comment before I had a better understanding of what I was doing. I am working on two projects - one is as an assistant for Elena, a nutritionist working on her doctoral thesis (also my sister's name hehe), who is studying cardiovascular disease risks in Nonqom, and the second is my small side project looking at what is sold in the kiosks of Nonqom and what how much people actually buy from these kiosks to support or just supplement their daily diets.
The former intrigues me greatly - the layout of the project is taking a survey of what people eat, how often they consume certain food, and what people think is a healthy body image (by choosing a body type from an array of figures). We then take anthropometric measurements - height, weight, waist size. This is supplemented by levels of % fat (measured by a scale that passes currents through the body and based on the conductivity of the body it can determine how much is fat...muscles will conduct electricity well since they are mainly water and fat will not, so a precision equation programmed into the scale can take these values and convert it to an approximate value for % body fat), blood pressure, glucose, HDL, and triglycerides levels. Since Elena started the measurement part of this project as soon as I came, I have been with her throughout all of the new experiment stage thus far - coordinating how best to take all of the measurements quickly and accurately, finding correct lancets to use with our glucose/HDL/Trig monitor, and learning how to get large enough drops of blood (sorry, it's a lot less gruesome than I am making it sound) from participants so that the machine deems it is sufficient to read all of the levels of the blood. Basically, it's been a bit of struggle, but we're rolling now. Our daily schedule is as follows: arrive in Nonqom by 8:00 (we have to take all blood measurements before the person has eaten breakfast or drank matte), and go from house to house until around noon, which is when we usually call it a day and return back to casa 100 (where I stay). Elena teaches classes a few times a week, so she has to run off and get ready for that while I attend to things at home - lunch, laundry, work, etc.
~ By the way, I should mention that 12-5 is a strict siesta time in Formosa. As Elena says, "it's sacred here." That means unless you have school or work at a gas station or large supermarket (there are not that many of either here), you go home and supposedly, sleep. Actually, I do believe it. Many people take their daily naps. ~

In the afternoons I have slowly but surely been building up to beginning my project. I have already gone to a few people from the neighborhood who own kiosks and we have spoken about meeting times - so today is the big day when I will go and actually get some interviews in (hopefully). Also, I am looking forward to the bike ride there, a nice half hour trek on the shoulder of a major highway, but something that is surprisingly more peaceful than I thought (considering large trucks with cargo and livestock are known to frequent that road).

I will post after my first round of interviews and will give more details about the people. Sorry to be so vague, but I need a bit of time to digest everything before I actually post about it. As a friend of mine from Brazil says (whom I met here at Elena's class, which, yes, I attended): até logo!

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Asado and other Argentinian Gastronomy

On Sunday I attended my first asado. Basically, it's a BBQ. We went over to the neighbor's house, where they had a picturesque backyard - sunlight falling on gorgeous vines that grew over the veranda awning - and delicious food. They had grilled pork, beef, blood sausage, empanadas (meat inside bread, like grilled pirogi), and ribs. All this for no more than ten people on a tranquil Sunday afternoon. Of course all of this was accompanied by salads from potatoes, tomatoes, and carrots. And of course by wine. The conversation around the table floated from anthropology to the FIFA to politics in Argentina and the US and back to the FIFA (like all South American countries, Argentina is obsessed with the Mundial - and after reading the article on the BBC about those Argetines who were deported from South Africa because they were deemed "too violent" I believe if it is strong anywhere, it's here). In short, it was wonderful and wonderfully filling (I didn't eat until lunch of the next day because I was so full).

As far as other Argentinian food is concerned, these are few things I have noticed so far (I have been here 1 week now):
1. They love to boil their vegetables. We had a nutritionist interviewing for a position here and she made some lunch yesterday - boiled pumpkin, carrot, and cabbage. It was quite good, but not exactly something I eat everyday in the States.
2. They love bread. One of the girls from the house told me that last night she was having dinner with some local friends, eating tortillas, and they asked "where's the bread? You forgot to put bread on the table." Considering tortillas are a common substitute for bread in Latin America, it struck me as amazing that they love it so much (but hey, I love that they love it).
3. Formosa is very famous for its ice cream. For that reason they have as many ice cream shops as New York has Starbucks. Incredible. Just some of the shops: "Balomerro", "Grido", "Aloa", "Cremo Latti", and just simply "Ice Cream." So far I have tried forrero rochero flavored, creme de leche, and some kind of strawberry - and I confirm, they are indeed fantastic. Not too sweet but extremely rich.
4. Did I mention they love bread? There is a snack called chipa - hard bread with cheese baked in - and it fills you like none other. It's like carrying a brick in your stomach. But hey, if you're out in the field all day doing work, it's good to eat for breakfast.

Otherwise, I have started cooking on my own. Aside from salads I have make eggs with tomatoes, pasta, potatoes, tuna sandwiches, and cereal. I know, I'm talented :P

That's all for now! Au revoir!

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Argentina

As I sit here around the table in la casa cien in Formosa, Argentina I can't help but think "what happened with my blog?!" Time to revive it, no?
SO! I'm back...but this time in Argentina working with an aboriginal village Nomqom, studying cardiovascular trends within the population. I hope to make time to update this blog on my travels and experiences in Costa Rica (not quite South America but close enough) and Peru. For now, welcome aboard this one....

So, getting to this place was quite the adventure. I landed from Hong Kong (I was in Asia for 10 days with school) and two nights later I was on an overnight plane to Buenos Aires (needless to say in between all of that flying, unpacking, and repacking I did not sleep). After arriving to Buenos Aires I immediately went to the Retiro bus station, bought my Formosa ticket, left my stuff, and went out and about the city. It was spectacular. Monuments, the "Tower Ingleses," La Chacra (asado place), and small shops (I went to curious little poster shop and got some "Tango" posters, of course, as well as to a small antique book shop where the owner turned out to be Ukrainian ....small world).
An overnight (and then some...) bus ride left me in Formosa city in the southeastern corner of the Formosa province and literally a stone's throw away from Paraguay (we are separated by just a river). It's a small city and quite lovely, as I've been finding out in the past few days. For example, tonight was a large folk festival and parade (postponed festivities for independence day of 25 de Mayo). We attended the latter part (folk music in the amphitheater) and saw some fire works on our way there. So, in short, there's plenty to do.

Next post will be about food - I have plenty to say already but I think I should keep my mouth shut until after my first asado (which should be tomorrow). I'm excited, to say the least.

Until then, ciao!

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Welcome!

Welcome!
This summer I'll be in Costa Rica and then Peru, so I figured I'd keep a blog about my adventures. Stay tuned for my "commencement post" in June.